A 3D printer by itself doesn’t make a functional workshop. The tools and accessories around it are what turn a machine on a desk into a productive setup. Here’s everything you actually need — no fluff, no novelty gadgets.
Tier 1: The Non-Negotiables
These are the tools you’ll reach for on every single print. If you’re setting up a new lab or workshop, buy these first.
Deburring and Cleanup Tools
Every print needs some cleanup — support removal, brim trimming, edge smoothing. A dedicated deburring tool is faster and safer than a knife.
- AFA Deburring Tool Kit — Our top pick. Rotating blade handles edges and support marks without gouging the part. Much safer than X-Acto knives, especially in a shared lab where students are doing their own post-processing.
Flush Cutters
For snipping support structures close to the surface. Nail clippers work in a pinch, but proper flush cutters leave a cleaner cut.
Look for spring-loaded cutters with a flush jaw — they should cut flat against the surface, not leave a nub.
Scraper / Spatula
For getting prints off the bed without damaging the build surface. A thin, flexible spatula works better than a rigid putty knife.
Tip: If you’re using a PEI spring steel sheet (like the ones that come with Bambu and Prusa printers), you usually just flex the sheet and the print pops off. Scrapers are more for glass and smooth build plates.
Needle-Nose Pliers
For removing support material from tight areas where your fingers can’t reach. Get a long-nose pair with good grip.
Tier 2: Better Prints, Less Hassle
These aren’t required for every print, but they make common tasks significantly easier.
Digital Calipers
You can’t improve what you don’t measure. Digital calipers let you verify dimensional accuracy, check filament diameter, and measure parts for fitment.
Get stainless steel calipers with 0.01mm resolution. Plastic calipers are useless — they flex and the readings drift.
Glue Stick
The easiest bed adhesion solution for PETG and tricky filaments. A basic washable glue stick applied to the build plate gives you reliable first-layer adhesion and acts as a release agent for materials that bond too aggressively.
Pro tip: Use a thin, even layer. You don’t need to coat the entire bed — just the area under your part.
Brass Nozzles (Spares)
Nozzles wear out. If you’re printing with any abrasive filament (carbon fiber, glow-in-the-dark, wood fill), they wear out fast. Keep spare 0.4mm brass nozzles on hand so a worn nozzle doesn’t shut down your printer for a week while you wait for shipping.
For abrasive filaments, upgrade to hardened steel nozzles.
Filament Dry Box
Moisture is filament’s worst enemy. Wet filament causes stringing, popping, poor layer adhesion, and rough surface finish. A sealed container with desiccant keeps your spools printable.
You don’t need anything fancy — a large airtight food storage container with rechargeable silica gel packets works great. For active drying, a dedicated filament dryer is worth it if you print with PETG, Nylon, or TPU regularly.
Tier 3: Lab and Fleet Management
If you’re running multiple printers or a shared space, these keep operations smooth.
Label Maker
Label your printers, filament spools (with open date), storage bins, and tool stations. It sounds trivial, but labeling is the difference between a chaotic lab and one that runs itself.
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) and Microfiber Cloths
Clean your build plate between prints with IPA. Finger oils, dust, and filament residue cause adhesion problems. A quick wipe with 90%+ IPA solves 90% of first-layer issues.
Storage Bins and Organizers
Designate bins for: spare nozzles, tools, in-progress prints, completed prints awaiting pickup, and failed prints. In a shared lab, clear organization prevents the “whose print is this?” problem.
Webcam or IP Camera
If your printer doesn’t have a built-in camera (like the Bambu Lab A1 does), add an external one. Being able to check on prints remotely saves you from walking to the lab to check on a 12-hour print.
What You Don’t Need
Skip these — they’re commonly recommended but rarely useful:
- Enclosures (unless printing ABS/ASA) — PLA and PETG print fine in open air
- Fancy tool holders or pegboards — a drawer or bin works just as well
- Specialty cleaning filament — a cold pull with nylon does the same thing for free
- Filament runout sensors (on printers that already have them) — most modern printers include these stock
Complete Starter Kit
If you’re setting up from scratch, here’s what to buy alongside your printer:
| Item | Why | Est. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| AFA Deburring Tool Kit | Part cleanup | ~$15 |
| Flush cutters | Support removal | ~$8 |
| Digital calipers | Measuring parts | ~$15 |
| Glue stick (washable) | Bed adhesion | ~$3 |
| IPA + microfiber cloths | Bed cleaning | ~$10 |
| Spare brass nozzles (5-pack) | Nozzle replacement | ~$8 |
| Airtight container + desiccant | Filament storage | ~$15 |
Total: ~$75 for a complete accessory kit. That’s less than a single spool of specialty filament.
Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, PrintPathLab earns from qualifying purchases. We only recommend products we’d use in our own lab. See our full affiliate disclosure.